What is subtraction cutting?
-Julian Roberts, a fashion designer, cutter, and filmmaker, describes subtraction cutting as:
"A method that cuts out pattern shapes, subtracted, in which the outcome shape is created by the removal of fabric."
- The overall silhouette depends on how the fabric drapes around the body.
- The result is quite unpredictable, inaccurate to numbers or sizing scales, and incorporates from 2D to 3D concepts.
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- Subtraction cutting is designing with patterns, not creating patterns with design.
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- Therefore, resulting in creating most complex volumes.
- Sometimes, mistakes can help you discover something that you think that it is not possible!
- Also, some designers' works can be made to wear mulitple ways, due to the placement of the body and limbs.
To make this experiment more sustainable, I used leftover fabrics from my previous assignments. Here below are the steps of my subtraction-cutting exercise (01):
Fabrics used:
polyester satin
cotton oxford
cotton sateen (thin)
- Prepare the paper patterns, both front and back.
- Join the fabrics in a patch, since they were not long enough.​
- Sew all the three seams, like a pillow case.
- Cut out the pattern, be careful to cut only one layer of the fabric.
- Join the shoulders and side seams.
- Layout the patterns, here I wanted the front and side seam longer than the back.
- Trace out the patterns. (Neckline, Shoulders, Armholes, Side Seams)
- Join the side seams with smooth curve lines.
- Put on the mannequin to observe the overall silhouette.
- Try out variations and pin on how the drapes fall, where the circles will be drawn and cut out.
The subtracted pattern:
- Trace out the circles.
- Cut them out, on one layer of fabric.
- Join each set of circles together.
- Add some gather details to create more drapes, as I put on the mannequin, upon observing the silhouette.
- Add elastic at the hem of the dress to create some textures.
- Put on the mannequin for a final look!
"Final Look"